Basically, I have an old pressurized kerosene burner that has been fit to the “heater” on my boat. (It’s a Force 10.)
There used to be a propane conversion, but it’s been discontinued for a decade.
I want to take a high output butane/propane remote canister stove, and affix it where the kerosene one is instead. I am confident in the steps to the project, I just am not sure how to find a stove without built in pot holders, or legs.
Does anyone know where to find a standalone burner? Or a stove suggestion that seems simple enough to disassemble without destroying?
@Chen
I have an alarm already, burning kerosene as it is, indoors in a confined space.
The size suggestion is great. The burner in there is a vintage Optimus style pressurized kerosene jetted burner with a pricker. It’s about 3 inch.
While it burns nicely, usually, once preheated, just thinking isobutane/propane widens the options for finding fuel, is more compact than the 2.5gal pressurized kerosene tank and leaky solid fuel line.
What I might be underestimating here is fuel consumption. 400ish grams of propane, or less for most iso cans. It definitely needs to be able to be on in the hours, not minutes range.
Chen said: @Kasey
Kerosene: Approximately 135,000 BTU per gallon.
Propane: Around 91,500 BTU per gallon. Heavier tank too cuz pressurized
Maybe I keep the kero burner, as it’s also less volatile, and just hunt down new stuffing for the stuffing box on the valve, and re-run the fuel line with a flexible pressurized instead of the annoying and leaky flared copper line it currently has.
Especially since a boat is of a potentially dangerous confined space, maybe a restoration is better than a replacement.
And maybe I need circulation, as it’s a radiant heater. It’s got a double-walled metal body that the burner is intended to heat up.
I just wish it was hotter—that’s my primary issue right now. The outer body could take a bit more heat; it’s clean enough burning and designed for its 1-inch flue, and I always leave the companionway opened enough and a hatch vent for good cabin air flow.
Hmm. Appreciate you sounding this out with me. Good things to think about.
@Chen
So, it’s a small flue and the heater definitely gets hot—but yeah, I think it’s supposed to work by exactly that principle—the hot air rises, it ends up self-circulating.
The hatch is usually closed in the bow. I put the companionway boards in but leave an inch gap or so for ventilation.
The heater itself doesn’t have an intake, and it’s attached to a bulkhead, approximately 15ft from the companionway (this is where the stairs to walk down are).
It’s a 33ft boat, so it’s on the edge of “camping” and “home” lol. Think RV camping, but no pressurized water, just pumps. I’ll be changing that this winter.
Chen said: @Kasey
What about upgrading to a catalytic heater? Or adding a second one for very cold days? Greater efficiency, more heat, less pollution.
I had sort of wondered if there was a way to retrofit that over a burner.
A catalytic burner would be excellent, exactly for the reasons you mention.
Anything, if it fits the opening, is doable—it’s just stainless and brass. I can cut a new “spot” to mount any burner. Maybe it’ll be just as easy as a “catalytic burner” search on Aliexpress lol.
Kerosene is a shelf-stable fuel and does not violently ignite like white gas. It has more BTU per ounce than propane and can be stored in a plastic container vs a heavy steel one that can be prone to rust being in a boat. It may be better to keep what you have. Good luck on your venture.